Hello,
I’m trying to shop around for a possible extension cord for this 250v, 50amp outlet.
We’d be trying to use an electric dryer from this, but would preferably have it extend nearer a window on the other side of a garage (~25-30 ft, generous measurement). We’d likely pick up an older, used, basic dryer model, and not sure what those electrical needs will specifically be, but trying to plan ahead in case something needs to be altered.
This is the closest I’ve found which might work:
Most other cords with 3 prongs had them sort of curved/circular. Yet, this says only 30 amps.
Is there different or specific wording which might assist my search? Or would something like the above cord work for our situation?
Thank you for taking the time to read my post. I appreciate any advice or directions.
Extension cords are not for permanent use. It will void any insurance claims, and having the dryer 25 feet from the outlet just screens permanent use to an adjustor or inspector.
Even if you find one do not use it. What you have found so far is a guarantee of a fire.
Get an actual sparky to run some conduit on the wall of the garage and move the outlet. It’s probably the cheapest option on the table.
But I’m wondering why you want to move the dryer closer to the window and what the dryer vent situation is. There might be a different solution to your problem.
That’s a Nema 6-50
Your dryer will need a 30A receptacle, not the 50A you have. Also, you’ll be short a crucial wire unless your dryer is old enough to only need 2+ground (you currently have two hots going to a double-pole 50A breaker, and a ground - new dryer will likely need 2 hots, a neutral, and a ground, on a 30a breaker). In other words, you may have to have new wire pulled anyway. Sorry.
Recommend: have electrician look and see about re-pulling the circuit with new Romex, 10/3. Dont just rig a cord unless you at LEAST swap the breaker, too. The wire can be upsized, the breaker and device cannot. If you’ve got basement access there, it could be a pretty quick job.
Source: am electrician
Who tf downvoted me, im the only actual electrician in this thread, ON THE ELECTRICIAN PAGE. I’m licensed and self-employed, which I’ll happily verify with mods. Absurd.
Just a heads up, most dryers allow for bonding the neutral to ground for a 3 wire application. I’m not a fan, but the option is usually there.
Now that said, OP could downrate the breaker to a 2p30a, and swap the receptacle, or Mickey mouse a 50a male cord end onto a 10/3 SO cable (and still downrate the breaker).
And now there’s two electricians in this thread :)
Agreed, may end up needing a 14-30 recepticle, new plug, and wiring.
Just move the receptacle.
DON’T use uncertified Amazon import stuff, especially when discussing 50A 220V circuits that run for over an hour straight. Your insurance adjuster will appreciate the denied claim.
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How’s he gonna move the receptacle? The wire comes in through the wall or the floor…
There are people called electricians. Who knows why they get paid as much as they do.
Looks like a nema 5-50 connector
Search for that for extension cords.
Not quite. The hot and neutral look reversed on OP’s.
I know I’ve run into this before. I’m an electrician who used to work at a supply house. Oh, its a 250V, not 120.
Nema 6-50R
Not an electrician - but if you don’t see a cable out there, it might be for a good reason. Running copper cable to relocate the outlet from current location to new location might be a solution - and something that -depending on your comfort level and situation, could be doable diy.
Electric dryers I’ve seen typically have different outlet type. Might be worth looking up their v / amps so you are sure the right gauge wire is running from panel to outlet.Dont go fooling with this if you don’t 100% know what youre doing.
Source: i am an electrician
No expert, but I think the 50A is just the max based on the rating of that receptacle. If a dryer only pulls 20A, then a 30A extension cord should be enough, right?
I’m not much help here. Just my 2 cents that might expand your available options. Additionally, someone suggesting the wrong thing makes experts more likely to correct them and give the poster the answer they are looking for.
He can swap that breaker and receptacle for a 30A and be fine if he only needs 2 hots or 1hot 1neutral.
I can confirm, the dryer will have the amperage it uses on a sticker on the back or it can also be found on the manufacturer’s website and as long as it’s less than what the cable and outlet are rated for your good.
He needs to swap the breaker to a 30a
I’m really glad you mentioned that. Just recently bought a dryer. I’ll have to check the breaker rating.
Just as a general comment, it might be worth running normal house wiring to a new location just out of pure economics. A proper extension chord is going to be expensive for 250v 50amps. House wiring, even the heavier gauge stuff for the higher amperage, is much cheaper than an extension chord because wall wiring is a solid wire and doesn’t need to be constantly flexible. An extension chord is basically always many stranded wire so that it is more supple, which isn’t as capable of carrying current. Thusly, they’re always much thicker and with tougher, more expensive casing than static wall wiring as well.
It miiight not be applicable, and maybe the costs have changed in recent years or are different in your area, but always worth considering a cheaper option.
The other comments about possibly needing alternate wiring/plugs might also really impact which option is best. In general, it’s worth using only extension chords beefy enough to take any current that the breaker won’t trip on. Meaning, if the circuit is 50 amps, a 30 amp chord can become a fire hazard even if the appliance uses less. After all, not everything works perfectly all the time. Don’t want one problem of a shorting drier/chord to become a much bigger problem with fire on top.
Chord is a musical reference; cord is a flexible string or in this context electrical cable.
Mmm stranded wire carries the same amount of current just fine, if not better due to the skin effect. Current likes surface area more than cross-sectional volume. 12g stranded does the same work as 12g solid. You do have to upsize for aluminum wire over copper, though - and cheap stuff will use aluminum every time.
Your final point is accurate though. Dont go using a 50a circuit for a 30a load, that’s how you have a fire.
Edit: i stand corrected
No, that’s actually wrong in the case of wall power. The skin effect only appears as any significant contributer at frequencies far above normal house wiring. Furthermore, the carrying capacity of a wire (for not high frequency AC) is determined by how many charge carriers the medium can move, as in how much actual conductive metal is there. Stranded wires have less cross sectional area than solid for the same guage.
So in the right context, you’d be correct, but this isn’t that case. See https://www.electricalelibrary.com/en/2021/11/17/skin-effect-what-is-it/ for some info. Notice how even 30khz has significant current flowing at depths that easily reaches the core of smaller house wiring.
Ah, fair point! Thanks.
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Princess Auto or Harbor Freight will have one. They’re used for welders.
I’m not familiar with Princess Auto, but I certainly wouldn’t put long-term trust in something from Harbor Freight.
Same store, different country.
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