This one was done on the Shapton Glass stones. The edge passed sharpness tests but did not look great under the microscope. Shaves just fine. It was last honed in 4/2024 so I may do a refresh on the 5k/10k Naniwa Advance. I liked that edge on the Friodur 14 during August. That was one comfortable edge! – finished with trailing edge strokes on the 10K, stropped on linen to encourage a slight convex apex, then stropped on a 0.75 micron diamond emulsion on nanocloth. (0.5 micron Cr2O3 paste for final strop would work just as well imo)
The edge passed sharpness tests but did not look great under the microscope. Shaves just fine.
This amused me 😅. And helps with my microscope FOMO.
10k Naniwa Advance. I liked that edge on the Friodur 14 during August. That was one comfortable edge! – finished with trailing edge strokes on the 10K, stropped on […] 0.5 micron Cr2O3 paste for final strop[…]
That’s all my edges until last October, now I also have a Naniwa 12k, but from the little testing I’ve done so far, I can’t really tell the difference between 10k and 12k unsurprisingly.
The edge passed sharpness tests but did not look great under the microscope. Shaves just fine.
This amused me 😅. And helps with my microscope FOMO.
It has taken me too long to learn how to properly analyze microscope images. I was very influenced by DrMatt357’s videos of (maybe?) 10 years ago. The area where it has been the most help has been in diagnosing slight edge anomalies. These go unnoticed most of the time, and it helps a little to fix them. I have also learned to get rid of most of these by paying more attention to slurry motion on the stone and to feel so the scope has improved my technique.
I can’t really tell the difference between 10k and 12k unsurprisingly
For me, the difference is that I know that after 12K with very light slurry (or just plain water) I can go directly to stropping on linen and leather. With 10K, I feel as if I want to take some passes on a loaded strop before moving on. I honestly doubt this is necessary, though. I think a Puma 89 comparison (I have two Puma 89s) between 10K and 12K Advance (Superstone) should get on the “to do” list.
This one was done on the Shapton Glass stones. The edge passed sharpness tests but did not look great under the microscope. Shaves just fine. It was last honed in 4/2024 so I may do a refresh on the 5k/10k Naniwa Advance. I liked that edge on the Friodur 14 during August. That was one comfortable edge! – finished with trailing edge strokes on the 10K, stropped on linen to encourage a slight convex apex, then stropped on a 0.75 micron diamond emulsion on nanocloth. (0.5 micron Cr2O3 paste for final strop would work just as well imo)
This amused me 😅. And helps with my microscope FOMO.
That’s all my edges until last October, now I also have a Naniwa 12k, but from the little testing I’ve done so far, I can’t really tell the difference between 10k and 12k unsurprisingly.
It has taken me too long to learn how to properly analyze microscope images. I was very influenced by DrMatt357’s videos of (maybe?) 10 years ago. The area where it has been the most help has been in diagnosing slight edge anomalies. These go unnoticed most of the time, and it helps a little to fix them. I have also learned to get rid of most of these by paying more attention to slurry motion on the stone and to feel so the scope has improved my technique.
That makes sense. Plus, it’s always nice to see your AA edge images :)
Thanks! I really enjoy documenting the challenges of AA.
For me, the difference is that I know that after 12K with very light slurry (or just plain water) I can go directly to stropping on linen and leather. With 10K, I feel as if I want to take some passes on a loaded strop before moving on. I honestly doubt this is necessary, though. I think a Puma 89 comparison (I have two Puma 89s) between 10K and 12K Advance (Superstone) should get on the “to do” list.