• AutoTL;DRB
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    13 months ago

    This is the best summary I could come up with:


    These are isolated stories to be sure, but I’d see the headlines projected on my bedroom ceiling when I woke up in the night with my insides burning like a fire at a chemical refinery.

    S. Irene Virbila, who ate out six nights a week for 20 years as restaurant critic for the Los Angeles Times, used to bring along a man to finish her plates.

    After she left the post, she lost 20 pounds in two months, “without thinking about it.” Today, aside from taking medication for an inherited vulnerability to cholesterol, she is in good health.

    How many smash burgers did I need to taste, or taste again, before I could write about the ones at Hamburger America, a restaurant I reviewed in the same months I was eating my way toward my “100 Best Restaurants ” list, for which I needed to make sure that the Uyghur hand-pulled noodles and Puerto Rican lechon asado and Azerbaijani organ-meat hash that I loved were, at least arguably, the best in the city?

    7 train, watching women press discs of fresh masa and men shave cherry-tinted strips of al pastor pork from slowly revolving trompos, when it seemed like an excellent idea.

    It’s not as easy for a soul-food hangout in Stapleton or a Palestinian kitchen in Bay Ridge or an Ensenadan aguachile specialist in Jackson Heights.


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